24 hours in San Francisco: Rediscovering the city by the bay

What to see and do in San Francisco in 24 hours

Few cities are as instantly recognisable as San Francisco. Famous for its rolling hills, fog-shrouded waterfront, historic neighbourhoods and the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, it's a destination packed with must-see attractions.

While a day may not seem long enough to experience it all, 24 hours is plenty of time to discover some of the city's biggest highlights.

From exploring Alcatraz Island and spotting sea lions at Fisherman's Wharf to wandering North Beach's vibrant streets and immersing yourself in the city's unique character, this whirlwind itinerary captures the magic of the City by the Bay.

Alcatraz Island is a must-visit tourist destination.

A sentimental return to San Francisco

The driver asked what time our tour was. I distractedly responded, “10:35, but we’re supposed to be at the ferry terminal 30 minutes early.”

He apologised for the mid-morning traffic; however, my attention was fixed on the grey clouds gently blanketing the city skyline.

I’d wondered if Leo and I would get a clear day to see San Francisco in full colour.

The chance to show my 20-year-old son the place I’d grown up knowing as ‘The City’ didn’t come around often.

He was excited to finally explore Alcatraz, and I was looking forward to revisiting old favourites and ensuring he got to see some other quintessential sights.

So, I couldn’t be mad that we were becoming reacquainted with Fog City through its exquisite shades of cloud, mist and marine layer.

Catching the ferry to Alcatraz

We arrived at Pier 33 for our ticketed reservation with just enough time to queue with the crowd.

After a smooth 15-minute ferry ride, cruising past commercial and private vessels sharing the bay, we disembarked onto The Rock.

A National Park Service Ranger greeted our ferry group, offering tips on how to spend our time and pointing us toward the winding, inclined pathways that led up to the Main Cellhouse.

Each elevation change was an opportunity to catch our breath and admire a panoramic view of San Francisco. Beautifully nurtured gardens gave life to the island and large, frosty white western gulls stood watch at every corner.

Guided through the main building by our personal audio players, we peeked through rows of iron and steel bars and stepped inside tiny 2.7m x 1.5m cells. The cramped quarters made an impression, but the outdoor recreation yard was chilling with its frigid, whipping winds.

Chonkers the sea lion is a popular drawcard at Pier 39. Photo: Leo Sutherland.

Spotting Sea Lions at Pier 39

Upon arriving back on the mainland, we walked to nearby Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf.

Before our feet even touched the wooden boardwalk, the aroma of sweet funnel cakes and warm chowder served in sourdough bread bowls welcomed us.

We walked the length of the shops, stopping to observe a personal tradition of acting like kids in a candy store at the Candy Baron, and headed to the Sea Lion Viewing Center to hang out with the city’s most charming and playful residents.

We hoped to lay eyes on ‘Chonkers’ (a 910kg Steller sea lion whose size eclipses all others) but alas, the only hint of him was on screen-printed T-shirts in souvenir shop windows.

Feasting on the flavours of North Beach

The first glimpses of blue sky fittingly emerged as we arrived in North Beach, a neighbourhood punctuated with colour.

The Northern Italians who settled here brought with them a vibrant restaurant and cafe culture, and its architectural landscape features densely packed Victorian row homes and Edwardian flats (with their distinctive bay windows) in a diverse palette of psychedelic, earthy, and muted tones.

Our first stop was City Lights Bookstore, a literary landmark and spiritual home of the 1950s Beatnik movement. I spent most of the time browsing poetry and in-house published works.

Nearby was the Transamerica Pyramid, with its unmistakeable silhouette.

I pointed out to Leo the lesser known, but equally impressive Sentinel Building. This copper green flatiron houses Cafe Zoetrope – a movie memorabilia-filled, European-style dining establishment that honours the art of storytelling.

Its owner, Francis Ford Coppola (who famously wrote the screenplay for The Godfather at another North Beach staple Caffe Trieste), has said, "To live the life of a bohemian, you need a cafe."

Our micro tour ended just a few blocks later when we arrived at our lunchtime destination, Cotogna.

We came for the brown butter ricotta raviolo and prosciutto with pillowy fried gnocchi but stayed for the people-watching.

Young tech professionals lunching at the next table could be overheard discussing their prime, behind-home plate seats at the next day’s baseball game, a distinctly SF dining experience.

Victorian homes make for a colourful street scene.

A date with the Golden Gate Bridge

Before the jetlag had a chance to set in, I requested one last sentimental detour to Fort Point, nestled at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Here, you get a view so cinematically beautiful it served as a dramatic backdrop for the Alfred Hitchcock classic Vertigo.

Leaving behind the tranquil, clear sunlight of North Beach, we were plunged back into a shroud of cool, silvery mist and crashing waves.

As I peered out at the birds gliding steadily over choppy waters, another tourist asked Leo if he could take a photo for him. It was a quick snap since the wind and heavy sea air were closing in.

We waved goodbye as our new acquaintance got into his driverless robotaxi and rode away – but not before the vehicle drove a few confused loops around the carpark.

Leo and I shared an amused laugh at having witnessed the inelegant growing pains of technological progress.

I wondered if these autonomous vehicles would have the same transformative influence on the city as the red-orange engineering marvel we were standing under.

We’d have to come back again one day and find out.

The understated exterior of Cotogna, one of North Beach's most memorable lunch stops. Photo: Leo Sutherland.

San Francisco: Frequently asked questions

Is 24 hours enough time to visit San Francisco?

Yes. While you won't see everything, 24 hours is enough time to experience some of San Francisco's most iconic attractions, including Alcatraz Island, Fisherman's Wharf, North Beach and the Golden Gate Bridge. Staying an extra day or two allows time to explore neighbourhoods such as the Mission District, Haight-Ashbury and Chinatown.

What is the best time of year to visit San Francisco?

September to November is often considered the best time to visit, with milder weather, less fog and fewer crowds than peak summer months. Spring is also pleasant, while summer can be surprisingly cool due to the city's famous marine fog.

Do I need to book Alcatraz tickets in advance?

Yes. Alcatraz tours frequently sell out weeks ahead, particularly during peak travel periods. Booking online before your trip is strongly recommended to avoid disappointment.

How do I get around San Francisco?

San Francisco is a walkable city, but its steep hills can be challenging. Visitors can use Muni buses and light rail services, historic cable cars, ferries, rideshare services and taxis. Many major attractions are connected by public transport.

Is San Francisco expensive to visit?

San Francisco can be an expensive destination, particularly for accommodation. However, many attractions, such as walking across the Golden Gate Bridge, exploring neighbourhoods and visiting parks and waterfront areas, are free. Public transport can also help keep costs down.

Is San Francisco family-friendly?

Yes. Families will find plenty to enjoy, including Alcatraz Island, Pier 39's sea lions, cable car rides, waterfront attractions, museums, parks and nearby day trips such as Muir Woods and Sausalito.

Why is San Francisco so foggy?

San Francisco's famous fog is created when cool Pacific Ocean air meets warmer inland temperatures. The phenomenon is most common during late spring and summer and contributes to the city's nickname, Fog City.

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