With its jagged coastline, tiny islands and harbours spread along the northern end of the Adriatic Sea, Croatia has a chequered history that deserves some understanding.

There have been tribal settlements, different ethnicities and religions, varying cultural practices and conflicts over these lands for thousands of years.

Most recently, in 1987 the country previously called Yugoslavia reverted to five separate Balkan countries, of which Croatia is the third largest – but it’s only a 10th of the size of France.

For tourists, it’s mainly about the coastal cities and the islands. If you’re planning a short trip, the best way to see them is undoubtedly on a cruise.

Cruising in Croatia is extremely popular but be warned – summer is hot, crowded and expensive.

It’s less of a problem if you’re staying on a ship, but onshore excursions will test your stamina and temper.

I advise choosing the shoulder months of May/early June or September.

The 'sea organ' in Zadar.

Going ashore means you can still enjoy the beach, swim in the Mediterranean, take tours to national parks and historic sites, visit local villages to try their food and wines, or stroll around the seaports and the bars. And the coffee is excellent.

Here are some highlights you will take away in your memory bank with a full camera.

The first port of call is Opatija, which is quite different from other places you will visit.

It’s a 19th-century health resort with a Monaco feel. Here oiled and tanned tourists in skimpies and budgie smugglers enjoy a dip in the clear blue Adriatic and sun themselves like lazy red lobsters or sport designer shades on their terraced rooms with a view.

Next is Zadar, which is different again.

Our ship cosied right up to the wharf, so we walked past the famous ‘sea organ’ into a busy market town with remnants of its 3,000-year-old settlement and Roman history on display.

If you wander around the town, there’s lots of history to explore; some cruisers highly recommended the optional day tour to Krka National Park or a bicycle tour for the fittest specimens.

The stunning harbour in Dubrovnik.

Onward we go to the pretty island of Korcula and the Old Town history walk with beautiful architecture and limestone buildings, a beach buggy tour and more options for the lycra mob.

My choice was an ice-cold frothy beer overlooking the azure Adriatic.

Then Montenegro beckoned with an early-morning arrival in Kotor after the trickiest of maritime manoeuvres through the narrow harbour entrance (thanks, Captain G), which was great fun to watch.

This is a different country to Croatia and the contrast is palpable.

It’s something you feel in the vibe of the place as you step off the ship onto the wharf. Perhaps it’s the influence of the Orthodox Church and medieval history making Kotor a UNESCO World Heritage site.

There’s a mouth-watering choice of tours here, making it hard to choose. It’s a beautiful place and the gelato is cheaper here too!

The penultimate stop is Croatia’s star attraction, Dubrovnik.

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Much has been written about this city (it’s also a World Heritage site) and its importance.

The walls surrounding the Old Town are the dominant feature and there’s a challenging 2km walk for the bravest.

There’s also a choice of onshore tours or find time to take the cable car to the mountaintop overlooking the town which is spectacular.

Our ship departed at 9pm, so there was time to enjoy a bit of onshore bar hopping.

Tip: Try Mirakul for the best pizzas outside Italy.

The last stop was Sibenik – a small, pretty medieval town to walk around and your last chance to tour Krka National Park if you have enough stamina.

I enjoyed a shorter visit to a winery and tasting hosted by a retired priest. Need I say more?

A stunning view in Kotor, Montenegro.

The most important decision you’ll need to make is the choice of ship.

My choice was Azamara Onward, one of the smaller options which can host about 600 cruisers rather than the really big ships you see anchored offshore. Small ones can generally dock wharfside.

The cabins (specify one with a balcony where you can have room service if you wish) are generously sized, with a king-size bed, desk and sofa, flat-screen TV and a bathroom featuring sustainable toiletries and a shower you can turn around in.

Best of all are the cabin attendants who pamper you mercilessly, even to the extent of taking your washing to the onboard laundry.

For food and beverages, it’s five-star all the way with a number of restaurants, cafes and bars.

No on-board casinos, but your holiday fun is matched by optional evening entertainment.

STORY PHIL HAWKES