Snowy Mountains Alpine Walk for the young at heart

In April 1955, two young mothers gave birth to two boys at Ashgrove Private Hospital in Brisbane – Paul Johnston was born on the 10th and Keith Cassidy on the 14th.

Having been close friends since kindergarten, Paul and Keith have done many adventures together, including an eight-month trek around Australia in a HQ Holden stationwagon in 1976, the year they turned 21.

It was only natural that they would want to do something special to celebrate their 70th birthdays.

They decided on tackling the Snowies Alpine Walk. 

Keith Cassidy and Paul Johnston.

The Snowies Alpine Walk is a spectacular four-day hiking experience through the heart of the iconic Snowy Mountains, curated by the New South Wales National Parks and Wildlife Service.

Whether you're a seasoned hiker or simply seeking a scenic challenge, the Alpine Walk offers breathtaking views, diverse landscapes, and a true sense of adventure –especially for those celebrating a milestone, like we were.

Designed with flexibility in mind, the walk can be completed in separate day sections, in any order, with the comfort of alpine accommodation and transfers to and from each trailhead.

Tip: Park your car at the end of the walk and be dropped at the start. That way, you won’t have any time pressures.

If you want to camp each night (and why would you want to?), the Alpine Walk is best done in the following order: Guthega to Charlotte Pass; Charlotte Pass to Charlotte Pass via Mt Kosciuszko; Charlotte Pass to Perisher; and Perisher to Bullocks Flat (near Crackenback).

Tip: Stay at Thredbo – it’s a hive of activity while a lot of the other resorts are closed over summer.

NPWS recommends that the 56km (total distance) Grade 4 walk be done by experienced bushwalkers. Note that it is only accessible from December to April,

We weren’t experienced, but we were prepared for anything. And we did some practice walks with loaded packs for training before leaving home.

We did the walks in the order recommended by National Parks.

Day 1 – Guthega to Charlotte Pass (9km)

This walk follows the Snowy River upstream and is supposed to take three hours but we took four.

Being the shortest walk, it is a great introduction to the beauty of the alpine region.

We walked to the sound of the babbling waters while following a well-defined track. It would be very hard to get lost on any of these walks. Absolutely stunning scenery.

Tip: Do it in the reverse order – downhill.

The Snowy River photographed on Day 1 of the walk.

Day 2 – Charlotte Pass to Charlotte Pass via the main range (22km)

Because we took a third longer to walk the first day, we were quite apprehensive about tackling a potential 10-hour circuit, given the supposed time is 7.5 hours.

There is a sensible alternative – a 13km return walk from Thredbo to Mt Kosciusczko using a chairlift for the initial climb. We were so glad we did this.

There is a wide, prepared walkway all the way to the top and the view of mountain range after mountain range in every direction from the top of Australia is unique, and a just reward for ticking this one off your bucket list.

Day 3 – Rest day

We planned to have a recovery day in the middle, and I’m glad we did.

We had a chance to revisit Eagle’s Nest Cafe atop the Thredbo chairlift and enjoy a gondola ride to witness the skill and bravery of the mountain bike riders in action. There is also a nice little walk around the golf course.

 

Day 4 – Charlotte Pass Village to Perisher (12.7km)

This walk is supposed to take five hours, but we took six. It is dominated by huge granite boulders, similar to parts of Girraween NP near Stanthorpe.

We enjoyed extensive views of Thredbo Valley, snow gums, wildflowers, and trickling streams.

Day 5 – Perisher to Bullocks Flat (12km)

After a relatively short uphill walk, most of this walk is downhill. It is supposed to take four hours and we took 5.5 – it is a great way to finish.

This walk is dominated by alpine ash forests and lush woodlands. After wonderful views of the Monaro Plain, the walk concludes along the banks of the crystal-clear Thredbo River.

Job done!

What a fantastic way to celebrate our 70th birthdays.

Although there were other walkers tackling these tracks, we rarely saw them. There were long periods where we felt like the only ones on Earth.

There were stunning views in every direction and that is one of the reasons we took longer than planned.

We took lots of photos. We also took our time taking care to rest frequently, have a snack, a drink, and take in both the scenery and the serenity.

A section of the walk between Charlottes Pass and Perisher.

Paul and Keith’s top tips

• Do your research.
• Read the NPWS information brochures and follow their advice.
• You will need a NPWS pass to access the national park. Buy one online before you go.
• Do some practice walks with all your gear before leaving home.
• Take the right equipment
• Get yourself a good pair of hiking boots, a backpack for your things, and a pair of hiking sticks. The sticks elevate your hands and keep them moving preventing pins and needles in your hands. They are also an aid to keep you steady on uneven surfaces.
• Wear the right clothing
• Be prepared for changes in weather and wear layers of clothes. For us in April, the temperature ranged from 2-17C. The mornings were very chilly, and if the wind blew, it got cold. But some afternoons, we could have worn shorts and T-shirts.

Health and safety

• Be realistic about your capabilities. The air at this altitude is thin and it can be cold. This might be a concern for asthmatics.
• The tracks have an uneven surface, particularly where they are paved with stepping stones. This might be cause for concern if you suffer weak ankles.
• Apply sunscreen, wear your sunnies and a shady hat.
• We carried a snake bite kit but never saw a snake.

Comfort stops

NPWS toilets are available at Charlotte Pass, about 1km from the top of Kosciusczko, and at Bullocks Flat.

And, finally, don’t just dream about it. Do it!

Keith retired from the position of Mobile Member Centre Coordinator with RACQ on 29 November 2024 after 14 years in the role. He now occasionally gives talks on safe towing at caravan shows for RACQ.

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