Uluru and the Red Centre: A journey through Australia’s heartland

It is bitterly cold before the sun rises over the Red Centre of Australia with Uluru looming on the horizon.

The massive monolith is not yet visible but there’s a ‘presence’ you can’t avoid.

We’ve come to watch the desert become a canvas for Sunrise Journeys – an indigenous art experience that tells a story of connection to the land.

Message with meaning

The desert air is freezing but there’s a warmth in the storytelling and music by the Anangu, the Traditional Custodians of this Country, that’s even better than the rugs cocooning us and mugs of hot tea.

The message is that by coming together we are one.

This new experience is one of many shining a light on the physical and spiritual heart of Australia.

Its inspiration comes from a painting by Anangu artists Selina Kulitja, Denise Brady and Valerie Brumby. “Our hearts burn with passion to share our country and knowledge with the world,” says Denise.

But they are stories that can only be told and heard while you are here.

Mother Nature’s spotlight

Mother Nature soon takes over, turning on her own spotlight. The sun peeks over the horizon lighting up the entire landscape from Uluru to Kata Tjuta, 50km away.

At the same time, on another sand dune, guests on a Desert Awakenings tour learn about the vegetation, wildlife and people who call this land home.

Field of Light sees 50,000 light ‘flowers’ illuminate seven football fields of desert with Uluru as the backdrop.

The great Aussie pilgrimage

Getting to Uluru is an adventure in itself.

For road trippers, this is the great Aussie pilgrimage. It’s a 445km drive south from Alice Springs along the Red Centre Way. There’s lots of ‘nothing’ in between stops like Stuart’s Well, Erldunda, where we turn right and head west, and Curtin Springs with its Wayside Inn and campground.

We pass Mt Conner, dubbed ‘Fooluru’ because it looks like Uluru; until you see the real thing.

But don’t mistake the vast landscape for a boring trip. Wide open spaces, big blue skies and a patchwork of red soil and unusually green Aussie scrub are your tickets to a real escape.

Wonders of Uluru and Kata Tjuta

Just seeing Uluru and Kata Tjuta is magical. But you need to get up close for the full impact.

There are many options at Uluru – from short self-guided Kuniya and Mala walks to the 10.6km base hike. You can also hire bikes or segways.

To learn about the Anangu culture and the park’s natural environment, take a free ranger-guided walk and visit the Cultural Centre.

At Kata Tjuta, the Valley of the Winds and Walpa Gorge hikes are the best way to experience this land of ‘many heads’.

Settle in at Yulara

Yulara is the tourist hub for Uluru. Ayers Rock Resort has accommodation for all budgets, from a campground to Sails in the Desert.

Grab a coffee at Kulata Academy Cafe, take the free shuttle bus around the village and join in free activities like a Gallery of Central Australia tour, Bush Yarns, didgeridoo and painting workshops and movies at Arkani Theatre.

Try the Indigenous-inspired Australian Native High Tea with finger lime almond tarts, lemon myrtle scones and quandong green tea.

The stunning Wintjiri Wiru drone show lights up the night sky.

Shining after dark

Sunset offers a new perspective of Uluru and more experiences that light a path to this rock star.

Wintjiri Wiru brilliantly combines modern art and technology with ancient storylines.

After-sunset drinks, canapes, and a picnic hamper, (weather permitting) the sky fills with a 1,000-drone light show that tells the history of the Anangu.

At Field of Light, 50,000 light ‘flowers’ illuminate seven football fields of desert. A Field of Light Star Pass includes drinks and canapes and a wander through the fields or go for gold with the Sounds of Silence dinner.

Kings Canyon adventures

Kings Canyon in Watarrka National Park is another geological wonder that can be seen on a side trip from Uluru or on the Red Centre Way drive back to Alice Springs.

There’s lots to do while staying at Discovery Kings Canyon; the 6km Canyon Rim Walk across 100m-high sandstone walls, helicopter flights and the 69 Light Towers that fill the outback air with a kaleidoscope of colour and music.

There’s also a five-course, fire-side dinner called Under the Desert Moon with outback touches like wattleseed seasoning, quandong brandy granita, roast lamb with chocolate pepper berry jus, and matching Australian wines.

The serene beauty of Ormiston Gorge.

Offroad on the Mereenie Loop

If you’re still feeling adventurous, follow the Red Centre Way back to Alice Springs via the 4WD-only Mereenie Loop.

Beware of wandering cattle, camels and wild horses running free, often straight in front of you.

After rain, you might also face boggy patches and corrugations where traffic has chewed up the track.

Once you reach bitumen again, the return loop goes via the West MacDonnell Ranges (Tjoritja).

From Glen Helen Gorge at the western tip to Ormiston Gorge, the Ochre Pits, Serpentine Gorge, Ellery Creek Big Hole and Standley Chasm there are hikes, swimming holes, bike trails and quiet spots to watch wildlife.

Some stops have kiosks and campgrounds, others even have bars and motel rooms.

The last stop is Simpsons Gap where a permanent water hole provides the perfect place to sit and reflect on how relaxed you are.

After all, it’s the Red Centre Way.

Getting there

If you don’t have the time to drive from Alice Springs to Uluru, there are direct flights from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Cairns to the heart of Australia. Hire cars and shuttle buses are available at the airport.

Don’t forget

• Uluru Kata Tjuta National Park pass 
• Mereenie Loop permit from Discovery Kings Canyon.
• West MacDonnell and Watarrka National Park passes
• Fuel is available at Alice Springs, Stuart’s Well, Erldunda, Curtin Springs, Yulara, Discovery Kings Canyon and Glen Helen Gorge.
• More information visit northernterritory.com and voyages.com.au

The writer was a guest of Voyages Indigenous Tourism.

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